The PK380 manual safety stinks.

I cannot recommend the PK380 until it's produced with
a proper and reliable manual safety.

I made several mods to my safety to make it adequate,
as indicated in files at my Picasa site: PK380.

.

Download my Picasa PK380 files if you want them.

Download anything from my Picasa PK380 site at
https://picasaweb.google.com/117361526236403477509/PK380?authkey=Gv1sRgCK_dmfD8qIbq1wE#

I can't say that the Picasa link will work for long, since Google Plus keeps
trying to convert Picasa sites to Google Plus, killing Picasa links.
(and Goo-plus files are not that good)
.

BREECH SLOP IN AXIAL DIRECTION

Don't use abrasives on the slide-to-barrel locking surfaces.
If the axial slop between barrel and slide exceeds maybe .020",
then that slop could grow from recoil impact, maybe to the point
of ruining the gun, depending on the quality and condition of the metals.

If that axial slop grows to maybe .060", then the barrel could ride up over
the barrel locking face, damaging the locking surfaces, and the barrel
could unlock from the slide before the bullet leaves the barrel.

The pk380 is no more likely to fail in this way than most other pistols.
Minimizing the axial "slop" is the main issue, and any problem is
not likely to show up under 3,000 rounds.
.

WHY MY WIFE WILL KEEP HER PK380

r3, feb 23.
I have concerns about the PK (it needs some mods), but the alternatives
for my wife always have some obstacle in the features she requires.
(some are also factors for many women and for older folks)
(also knowing that some other 380 guns cannot be legally imported)

- - - - Factors favoring the PK for my wife - - - -

It's not a revolver, and it's easy to rack slide (less than 9 pounds peak).
It's not 9x19, 40, 45 (can jam with weak or one-hand grip; often Glocks).
As in defense, the PK can be fired one-handed without cycling jams.
After shakedown, reliability reports usually above 97 pct (IF safety is off).

The barrel is 3.7", with a long sight radius; with 10" twist, gives
point-first hits through 50 ft, with maybe 3" drop.
It has a rail, which can be shimmed to accept common devices.
If needed, it's small and light enough for concealed-carry.
It's not an always-hot-trigger war gun; and it has a real safety.

It shoots 180 ft-lb, enough for most jobs using FMJ round nose.
Has adequate SA/DA trigger (should polish DA cams; add grip depth)
Indoor noise under 142dBc, limits ear damage/temporary deafness.
(repeated temporary deafness has had my ears ringing for 40 years)

My PK has s/n PK022---. .I've looked at several PK's at gun shows
recently that ranged up to PK056---, all 2010 (BA) guns.
There are only two substantial differences that I noticed in those guns.
The safety spools are now black, so hopefully there has been further
improvement in the metallurgy and/or processing of the spools.
Combined with the lack of reports of problems with 2010 spools,
the spool breakage problem might be history.
But as insurance I would buy one with s/n above PK035000.

For those who so choose, the Walex laser's housing is different
now (no dimples), so maybe the shutoff problem is history.
There are some small green lasers appearing, though they protrude
ahead of the short PK rail. (green mainly for daylight aiming)

LOOKING FOR INFO ON BROKEN SAFETY SPOOLS

I'm trying to get a better idea of the extent and nature of breaking
hammer block spools, particularly if any are sn-pk030______ and up.
I don't have confidence that Walther/Umarex/Smith will do their duty.

I need the first few numerals in serial numbers, and date code(AK,BA,BB)on
the slide, and pics if available. (at least a description of the break)

I only know of about 7 to 10 broken spools, but there must be more, possibly
many more. It seems that 2009 guns had the problem, but maybe not 2010 guns.
Looking at recent PK's, I see that the spool color has changed to flat black.
This might indicate a change in metallurgy or processing.

A comment here, or email to ebrownee@gmail.com would be useful.
.

My Waltherex PK380

__________________________________________ (r4, Dec 29)
My PK380 disappoints. If you buy one, you might need to send it for service.
If you have small tools and magnified light, you can do much yourself, but
check the warranty disclaimers. Avoid guns with AK(2009) on the slide.

The P22 and PK380 are not good for the "Walther"(Umarex?) reputation.
Umarex owns Walther, and builds the PK mainly at Koln Germany(near Belgium)
though the housing states "Carl Walther Ulm/[Danube]"(south-central).

The PK380 is partly based on the excellent Walther p99, but many folks
have issues with 9x19, which are much stronger and difficult to deal with.
A 380 (with a 3"+ barrel) is a compromise for routine home/car defense.

This gun is sold for personal defense, such as at policemag.com :
"...PK380 ...all of the features needed for personal defense situations,"
said Tom Kelly, Smith & Wesson VP. "...upgrade of the same design[P22]
in a self-defense appropriate caliber. The PK380 fully answers these
requests while delivering a fit and finish that firearms enthusiasts
have come to expect from Walther firearms." [?]

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
In some, maybe just 2009, guns, the hammer safety spool can break in half
suddenly. .A close-up of a fractured spool shows typical ductile/brittle
fracture patterns starting from a sharp internal corner where it intersects
the outer diameter, but at the side opposite from the hammer.
Walther has not announced a change, but if they're awake, they have
improved the spool production process.

There are avoidable stress concentrations during MIM sintered-part cooling,
but mostly at recoil impact. There are reports of dark coloration on fractured
surfaces, likely from the uneven globular structure of fractured sintered
steel, which includes some binder residue in the voids.

I think that normal recoil impact is the major risk for the safety spool.
A spool might break at dry-fire, but I think those are only the last straw.
To help confirm this, I dry-fired in safe-mode over 300 times before firing
another 100 rounds. .There are 350 rounds through the gun, 300+ dry-fires,
and a few hundred dry cycles with snap caps.

After polishing, under strong light/magnification, there are no visible flaws.
I've seen pics of four busted spools, and all four indicate that stress at the
f-p slot, opposite from where the hammer is slammed by the spool in recoil, is
the source of fracture. (I checked contact of my hammer and spool, and found
that there was a strong concentration at the lower left corner of the spool.
I was able to modify the hammer at that point to greatly reduce that stress.)

I see a similar wear imbalance in the same location in video of the newer
signal-gas 'PK380'version. The nominal drawing dimensions seem to be off,
or there could be a stackup bias in production.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Another avoidable issue: The internal trigger locking pin can jam up the
works if it's in the "S" position while trying to rack the slide, or while
forcing back the hammer, or maybe when forcing the trigger. .Tension during
a real threat can easily lead to this if the trigger was locked (as intended).

The trigger tip on mine moved about 3/4" in DA from 'grab' to 'fire'.
The first half of travel was under 5 pounds, then rising to 10 at break.
If your DA trigger is not easy in the first half, the trigger lock is
likely in the 'S' position, and if you pull the trigger over 20 pounds,
or if you force the slide or hammer back, the polymer trigger claw can
slip off the lock-pin and get jammed on it. (reports, testing, inspection)

It should be fairly obvious from resistance if the trigger is locked, but
some folks report this problem. Racking in the locked mode is not very
difficult. .If this happens, try just bumping the slide forward. Forcing
the hammer too far is difficult, but clearing requires removing the slide.
I added a "shelf" groove to the lock-pin so that the trigger, slide, or hammer
would start to move, but suddenly stop to make it clear if the lock is engaged,
and to avoid slipping of the polymer claw at the lock-pin.
.

Note to Umarex-Wather-SW

If you want to engage in pre-litigation discovery, please send a preliminary
cause brief to ebrownee@gmail.com, and include preliminary requests for
admissions. All theories should be included, with citations, since I've
covered the usual statutes and cases, state and federal.

If you manage to show a claim with real merit, I would not fight that, and
Google would not be a legal obstacle. Then I could provide you with my
preliminary brief on counterclaims, and a preliminary requests for admissions.
[RPost is good, but I won't use my RPost account yet.]

If my PK fails, with substantial harm (beyond warranty disclaimers) and due to
neglect of known problems, then strict liability would be one pillar of the case.

" SHILLS "

"SHILLS" benefit from helping to sell goods, services, or ideas,
without revealing their bias toward those things, and give a
false impression of approving customers, believers, or reviewers;
or sometimes a false impression on the negative side.